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The Unrestrained Vision: 5 Ways Anthony Vaccarello Has Redefined The Yves Saint Laurent Designer Legacy

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The legacy of Yves Saint Laurent is one of revolutionary elegance and subversive power, a mantle now held by one of fashion's most enigmatic figures. As of December 2025, the creative director steering the iconic Parisian house is Anthony Vaccarello, a Belgian-Italian designer whose tenure since 2016 has been marked by a relentless pursuit of purity, modernity, and an unrestrained female silhouette. His work continuously pays tribute to the original designer's spirit while stripping away ornamentation to reveal a clean, powerful aesthetic that dominates the luxury landscape today.

The latest updates from the house, including the stark, focused Fall/Winter 2025 collection and the ambitious cultural expansion of Saint Laurent Rive Droite, confirm Vaccarello's position not just as a designer, but as the architect of Saint Laurent's contemporary identity. He has successfully sculpted a version of the Saint Laurent woman that is confident, absolutely in control, and always taking up space.

Anthony Vaccarello: The Architect of Modern Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello, the current creative director, has cemented his status by channeling the irreverent modernity of Yves Saint Laurent himself. His approach is defined by a focus on sharp tailoring, a minimalist palette, and silhouettes that celebrate the body with an almost architectural precision. He took the helm in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane, and has since been responsible for all collections, including ready-to-wear, leather goods, and accessories, under the Kering luxury group.

Biography and Profile

  • Full Name: Anthony Vaccarello
  • Born: January 18, 1982
  • Nationality: Belgian-Italian
  • Education: La Cambre School of Visual Arts, Brussels
  • Career Highlights:
    • Began his career working at Fendi under Karl Lagerfeld (2006).
    • Launched his eponymous label in 2009.
    • Creative Director of Versus Versace (2015-2016).
    • Appointed Creative Director of Saint Laurent (2016–Present).
  • Signature Aesthetic: Clean lines, sharp tailoring, a focus on the female form, and a monochromatic or minimalist color palette.
  • Creative Philosophy at YSL: Upholding Yves Saint Laurent's creative legacy with a focus on clothing in its purest form, often referencing archival details like the "big shoulder" while eliminating all ornamentation.

Vaccarello’s vision is not merely to recreate the past, but to distill the essence of the original designer’s revolutionary spirit into a contemporary language. This approach has resonated deeply with a new generation, solidifying Saint Laurent’s position as a powerhouse of luxury fashion.

1. The Fall/Winter 2025 Collection: An Ode to Pure Form

The most recent major statement from the designer is the Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2025 collection, which has been hailed as a vibrant tribute to the house's foundational spirit. Vaccarello's intention for this collection was clear: a focus on clothing in its purest form—no ornamentation, no decoration, just the silhouette.

The collection was a powerful exercise in precision and volume, notably solidifying the return of the big shoulder. This dramatic silhouette, a reference to the power dressing of the 1980s and the original designer's own archives, was used to create a look that commands space and attention. Models walked in garments that were exercises in pure design, often featuring exaggerated, structured shoulders on coats and jackets, emphasizing a sense of confidence and control.

Key elements defining the Winter 2025 aesthetic include:

  • Architectural Tailoring: Sharp, clean lines that sculpt the body.
  • The Big Shoulder: A dominant feature used to create a powerful, imposing silhouette.
  • Minimalist Color Palette: The collection largely adhered to a sophisticated, austere palette, allowing the form and structure of the garments to speak for themselves.
  • Sublime Edit of History: Vaccarello meticulously edited Saint Laurent's history, taking iconic elements and presenting them with a modern, stripped-down sensibility.

This commitment to simplicity of silhouette—as if the garments were "created with a single gesture"—underscores the designer's mastery of cut and proportion, moving away from fleeting trends to focus on timeless, uncompromising style.

2. The Spring/Summer 2025 Show: A Sprint of Pure Design

The Spring/Summer 2025 show continued Vaccarello's exploration of refined, unadorned fashion. This collection was described as a "sprint" of pure design, further emphasizing the designer's dedication to an aesthetic free from excessive flourish. While past collections have sometimes been exercises in seductive, pure design, the 2025 shows represent a heightened focus on the structural core of the garment.

The Saint Laurent man, too, has been a recent focus, with collections often referencing the brand's connection to Marrakech, a place of profound significance to the original Yves Saint Laurent. Vaccarello brought the imagery of the French maison back to this iconic location, showcasing a menswear vision that is both relaxed and impeccably sharp, bridging the gap between the house's bohemian history and its current sleek aesthetic.

3. Saint Laurent Rive Droite: The Cultural Platform Reimagined

Perhaps the most forward-thinking and unique aspect of Anthony Vaccarello's tenure is the Saint Laurent Rive Droite project. Named in homage to the original *Saint Laurent Rive Gauche* line which democratized luxury fashion, Rive Droite is a concept store and cultural platform that goes far beyond clothing.

The project, located at 213 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, reopened in February 2025 after a year of renovations, taking its unique concept to a new level. It functions as a cross between a cultural destination, a lifestyle store, and an exhibition space.

Recent and notable collaborations and projects under Rive Droite include:

  • The Donald Judd Foundation: A significant collaboration that involved redesigning the flagship space to reflect the minimalist, architectural principles of the renowned artist Donald Judd.
  • Memphis Group: Vaccarello chose to collaborate with the Italian design and architecture group Memphis, known for its postmodern, colorful, and often controversial furniture, adding a layer of artistic depth to the brand's lifestyle offerings.
  • Sushi Park Paris: The reopening of the Rive Droite location featured the inclusion of Sushi Park Paris, showcasing a fresh architectural design that integrates high fashion with high-end dining and cultural experiences.
  • Snow Edition: The project has also featured seasonal, highly exclusive drops like a "Snow Edition," further diversifying the brand's product offerings into unique lifestyle categories.

This initiative solidifies Vaccarello’s role as a curator of culture, ensuring that the Saint Laurent name remains a relevant, multi-faceted entity that engages with art, design, and architecture, not just clothing. The Rive Droite concept is a direct reflection of the designer's personal interests and his desire to create a holistic, immersive world for the brand's clientele.

4. The Power of the Saint Laurent Woman Aesthetic

Vaccarello has sculpted a clear, consistent image of the Saint Laurent woman. She is often seen in a severe, all-black or monochromatic outfit, characterized by razor-sharp tailoring, high-cut silhouettes, and a sense of unapologetic sensuality. His designs consistently favor leather, vinyl, and high-shine fabrics, often paired with the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo, which he reinterprets each season. This aesthetic is confident, unrestrained, and absolutely in control, perfectly embodying the spirit of the house's original boundary-pushing designs.

5. Upholding the Legacy with Irreverent Modernity

Since his appointment, Anthony Vaccarello has successfully upheld the creative legacy of Yves Saint Laurent with what Kering describes as "irreverent modernity." He has managed to maintain the house's core identity—a blend of Parisian chic and rock-and-roll edge—while ensuring the collections feel undeniably current. His focus on the simplicity of silhouette and the elimination of extraneous detail is a bold statement in a maximalist fashion world, positioning Saint Laurent as a purveyor of timeless, powerful luxury. The continued success of the brand under his direction, exemplified by the clear, focused vision of the 2025 collections and the cultural expansion through Rive Droite, confirms that Vaccarello is not just the designer of the moment, but a defining voice for the future of the legendary French maison.

yves saint laurent designer
yves saint laurent designer

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